Forecast of gravel beach profiles using Canonical Correlation Analysis.
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.24850/j-tyca-2010-02-01Keywords:
Canonical Correlation Analysis, beach profiles, gravel beaches, beach morphology, forecastAbstract
t the Coastal Research Center in Germany. For this purpose, time series of free surface elevation, both in deep and shallow waters, are utilized in order to determine the probability density function (pdf) of wave heights. To determine the forecast of beach profiles, these pdf's are related to measured beach profiles through CCA. The results indicate correlations of 0.95 for offshore conditions and 0.98 for near-shore conditions. It is demonstrated that CCA is an ideal tool for predicting beach profiles, as long as good quality data is acquired. This reveals the importance of implementing a continuous coastal monitoring program.
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